ScrapMarks: 2/1/09

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

knitted hat pattern

I'm not really a hat person, spend too much time trying to get my hair to lay perfectly flat. But I thought this one was really cute, and the girl looks just like someone I went to high school with. Anyway... I got this pattern from a live journal post at some point. Materials: Less than half of a 6-oz skein of TLC Baby in Pinkie Set of double-pointed needles US size 6 (4 mm) Tapestry needle Gauge: 18 sts per 4 inches in k2tog,yo pattern Size: I have a large head and thick hair (about 23" around), and this cap is made to fit loosely. So if you have a smaller head or want a tighter fit, you can either subtract 4 sts for every inch (approx) difference in head size, or just use thinner yarn with a tighter gauge to get the right fit. Or you can make it as is, and it might turn out with more of a beret or tam look. Cast on 108 sts and distribute to 3 dpns (36 on each). Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Work 6 rounds in k2,p2 ribbing. Lace Pattern: Round 1: *k2tog, yo*; repeat between*s around. Round 2: knit around. Repeat these 2 rounds 17 more times. Crown Shaping: Round 1: *k2tog, [k2tog, yo] 8 times*; repeat between *s around - 102 sts rem. Round 2 and all even rounds: knit around. Round 3: *k3tog, yo, [k2tog, yo] 7 times*; repeat between *s around - 96 sts. Round 5: *k2tog, [k2tog, yo] 7 times*; repeat between *s around - 90 sts. Round 7: *k3tog, yo, [k2tog, yo] 6 times*; repeat btween *s around - 84 sts. Round 9: *k2tog, [k2tog, yo] 6 times*; repeat between *s around - 78 sts. Round 11: *k3tog, yo, [k2tog, yo] 5 times*; repeat btween *s around - 72 sts. Round 13: *k2tog, [k2tog, yo] 5 times*; repeat between *s around - 66 sts. Round 15: *k3tog, yo, [k2tog, yo] 4 times*; repeat btween *s around - 60 sts. Round 17: *k2tog, [k2tog, yo] 4 times*; repeat between *s around - 54 sts. Round 19: *k3tog, yo, [k2tog, yo] 3 times*; repeat btween *s around - 48 sts. Round 21: *k2tog, k2tog, yo*; repeat between *s around - 36 sts. Round 23: *k3tog, yo*; repeat between *s around - 24 sts. Round 25: *k2tog, k2tog, yo*; repeat between *s around - 18 sts. Round 27: k2tog around - 9 sts. Cut yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail. Use tapestry needle to thread end through remaining loops. Put tight and tie off. Weave in ends.

Quant or scarf

This is one of my favorite patterns. At first it was impossibly hard, but eventually it got much easier. It's similar to the pattern that I posted for dish-cloths. I followed this pattern for a Quant that I found on Knitty and adapted it for a scarf. I used the same Crystal Palace Yarns: Taos that they used in the picture. If I was to do it again I would probably use something else. It wasn't very soft (especially since I was making a scarf) and it was impossible to undo. I can't tell you how much i wasted trying to take apart what I had done and not being able to. I defiantly wont try and learn a new and complex pattern with that yarn. But, in its defense, it is beautiful, these pictures do not do it justice at all. And the length of the variegate is perfect for this pattern.

Here is how I retyped the pattern so it was easier for me to follow when knitting a scarf from it. I never was able to finish it, so I haven't yet figured out how I'm going to fill in to bind off. If anyone gets there before me, let me know

Cast on 45 stitches

Base Triangle

Row 1 [RS]: K1, turn work. Row 2 [WS]: P1, turn work. Row 3 [RS]: Sl 1, k1, turn work. Row 4 [WS]: P2, turn work. Row 5 [RS]: Sl 1, k2, turn work. Row 6 [WS]: P3, turn work. Row 7 [RS]: Sl 1, k3, turn work. Row 8 [WS]: P4, turn work. Row 9 [RS]: Sl 1, k4, turn work. Row 10 [WS]: P5, turn work. Row 11 [RS]: Sl 1, k5. Do not turn work.

---Repeat the below instructions about ten times---

Left Edge

Row 1 [WS]: K1, turn work. Row 2 [RS]: Kfb, turn work. Row 3 [WS]: K1, p2tog, turn work. Row 4 [RS]: K1, m1, k1, turn work. Row 5 [WS]: k1, p1, p2tog, turn work. Row 6 [RS]: K2, m1, k1, turn work. Row 7 [WS]: k1, p2, p2tog, turn work. Row 8 [RS]: K3, m1, k1, turn work. Row 9 [WS]: k1, p3, p2tog, turn work. Row 10 [RS]: K4, m1, k1, turn work. Row 11 [WS]: k1, p4, p2tog. Do not turn work. Left Edge Triangle is complete.

Right Slanting Center Diamond

Row 1 [WS]: Pick up and p 6 sts along edge of next base triangle. Sl last picked-up st to left needle, p2tog with next st on needle. Turn work. Row 2 [RS]: K6, turn work.

Row 3 [WS]: Sl 1, p4, p2tog, turn work.

Row 4 [RS]: K6, turn work.

Row 5 [WS]: Sl 1, p4, p2tog, turn work.

Row 6 [RS]: K6, turn work.

Row 7 [WS]: Sl 1, p4, p2tog, turn work.

Row 8 [RS]: K6, turn work.

Row 9 [WS]: Sl 1, p4, p2tog, turn work.

Row 10 [RS]: K6, turn work.

Row 11 [WS]: Sl 1, p4, p2tog. Do not turn work; diamond is complete.

Row 1 [WS]: Pick up and p 6 sts along edge of next base triangle. Sl last picked-up st to left needle, p2tog with next st on needle. Turn work. Row 2 [RS]: K6, turn work.

Row 3 [WS]: Sl 1, p4, p2tog, turn work.

Row 4 [RS]: K6, turn work.

Row 5 [WS]: Sl 1, p4, p2tog, turn work.

Row 6 [RS]: K6, turn work.

Row 7 [WS]: Sl 1, p4, p2tog, turn work.

Row 8 [RS]: K6, turn work.

Row 9 [WS]: Sl 1, p4, p2tog, turn work.

Row 10 [RS]: K6, turn work.

Row 11 [WS]: Sl 1, p4, p2tog. Do not turn work; diamond is complete.

Row 1 [WS]: Pick up and p 6 sts along edge of next base triangle. Sl last picked-up st to left needle, p2tog with next st on needle. Turn work. Row 2 [RS]: K6, turn work.

Row 3 [WS]: Sl 1, p4, p2tog, turn work.

Row 4 [RS]: K6, turn work.

Row 5 [WS]: Sl 1, p4, p2tog, turn work.

Row 6 [RS]: K6, turn work.

Row 7 [WS]: Sl 1, p4, p2tog, turn work.

Row 8 [RS]: K6, turn work.

Row 9 [WS]: Sl 1, p4, p2tog, turn work.

Row 10 [RS]: K6, turn work.

Row 11 [WS]: Sl 1, p4, p2tog. Do not turn work; diamond is complete.

Right edge Triangle

Note: The remaining st of the Right Edge Triangle from Section 1 counts as the first picked-up st for the first diamond in Section 2. When working this diamond, instead of picking up 6 sts, slip the remaining st to the right needle, then pick up and k 5 sts.

Row 1 [WS]: Pick up and p6 sts along edge of next base triangle or diamond. Turn work. Row 2 [RS]: K6, turn work. Row 3 [WS]: Sl 1, p3, k2tog, turn work. Row 4 [RS]: K5, turn work. Row 5 [WS]: Sl 1, p2, k2tog, turn work. Row 6 [RS]: K4, turn work. Row 7 [WS]: Sl 1, p1, k2tog, turn work. Row 8 [RS]: K3, turn work. Row 9 [WS]: Sl 1, k2tog, turn work. Row 10 [RS]: K2, turn work. Row 11 [WS]: K2tog. Right Edge Triangle is complete. Turn work.

Left Slanting Diamond

Row 1 [RS]: Pick up and k6 sts along edge of next triangle or diamond. Sl last picked-up st to left needle, ssk with next st on needle. Turn.

Row 2 [WS]: P6, turn work.

Row 3 [RS]: Sl 1, k4, ssk, turn work.

Row 4 [WS]: P6, turn work.

Row 5 [RS]: Sl 1, k4, ssk, turn work.

Row 6 [WS]: P6, turn work.

Row 7 [RS]: Sl 1, k4, ssk, turn work.

Row 8 [WS]: P6, turn work.

Row 9 [RS]: Sl 1, k4, ssk, turn work.

Row 10 [WS]: P6, turn work.

Row 11 [RS]: Sl 1, k4, ssk. Do not turn work; diamond is complete.

Row 1 [RS]: Pick up and k6 sts along edge of next triangle or diamond. Sl last picked-up st to left needle, ssk with next st on needle. Turn.

Row 2 [WS]: P6, turn work.

Row 3 [RS]: Sl 1, k4, ssk, turn work.

Row 4 [WS]: P6, turn work.

Row 5 [RS]: Sl 1, k4, ssk, turn work.

Row 6 [WS]: P6, turn work.

Row 7 [RS]: Sl 1, k4, ssk, turn work.

Row 8 [WS]: P6, turn work.

Row 9 [RS]: Sl 1, k4, ssk, turn work.

Row 10 [WS]: P6, turn work.

Row 11 [RS]: Sl 1, k4, ssk. Do not turn work; diamond is complete.

Row 1 [RS]: Pick up and k6 sts along edge of next triangle or diamond. Sl last picked-up st to left needle, ssk with next st on needle. Turn.

Row 2 [WS]: P6, turn work.

Row 3 [RS]: Sl 1, k4, ssk, turn work.

Row 4 [WS]: P6, turn work.

Row 5 [RS]: Sl 1, k4, ssk, turn work.

Row 6 [WS]: P6, turn work.

Row 7 [RS]: Sl 1, k4, ssk, turn work.

Row 8 [WS]: P6, turn work.

Row 9 [RS]: Sl 1, k4, ssk, turn work.

Row 10 [WS]: P6, turn work.

Row 11 [RS]: Sl 1, k4, ssk. Do not turn work; diamond is complete.

Row 1 [RS]: Pick up and k6 sts along edge of next triangle or diamond. Sl last picked-up st to left needle, ssk with next st on needle. Turn.

Row 2 [WS]: P6, turn work.

Row 3 [RS]: Sl 1, k4, ssk, turn work.

Row 4 [WS]: P6, turn work.

Row 5 [RS]: Sl 1, k4, ssk, turn work.

Row 6 [WS]: P6, turn work.

Row 7 [RS]: Sl 1, k4, ssk, turn work.

Row 8 [WS]: P6, turn work.

Row 9 [RS]: Sl 1, k4, ssk, turn work.

Row 10 [WS]: P6, turn work.

Row 11 [RS]: Sl 1, k4, ssk. Do not turn work; diamond is complete.

crochet stich

Here is a pretty crochet stitch from Lion Brand Yarn called Alone Together. It is one of the hundreds that they have in their Stitch-Finder section. You may have to have a free account with them to access their patterns and stitches. Wouldn't this make an adorable blanket?

CL2 (2-dc Bobble) [Yo and draw up a lp, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] twice, yo and draw through all 3 lps on hook. CL3 (3-dc Bobble) [Yo and draw up a lp, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 3 times, yo and draw through all 4 lps on hook. First Motif (ch 4, join with sl st to form ring) Rnd 1 Ch 1, 8 sc in ring, join with sl st to first sc. Rnd 2 (Ch 3, CL2) in first sc, ch 4, [CL3 in next sc, ch 4] 7 times—8 clusters. Join with sl st to top of beg CL2. Rnd 3 Sl st in first ch-4 sp, ch 1, *(1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc, ch 4, 1 sc) in next ch-4 sp, ch 8, (1 sc, ch 4, 1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc) in next ch-4 sp; rep from * around. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off. Second and All Remaining Motifs Work as first motif through rnd 2. Joining Work rnd 3 as first motif, joining motifs in corresponding ch-8 corners or ch-4 lps as foll: Ch-8 Corners Ch 4 on rnd 3 of 2nd motif, drop lp from hook, insert hook from front to back through corresponding ch-8 lp on first motif, pick up dropped lp of 2nd motif, ch 4, cont to work rnd 3 on 2nd motif as established. Ch-4 Lps Ch 2 on rnd 3 of 2nd motif, drop lp from hook, insert hook from front to back in corresponding ch-4 lp on first motif, pick up dropped lp of 2nd motif, ch 2, cont to work rnd 3 of 2nd motif as established.

beaded hair thingy

Here is a really cute beaded hair thingy. Its from the free ideas and instructions section of Fire Mountain Gems. They are the first place I go to for anything bead related. They sell EVERYTHING, and have a great idea section. Materials 6mm glass beads (if making a hair thingy) about 2 yards of size D thread, doubled 2 size 10 needles 1 hair stick

In the illustrations below, the green arrow represents the direction of needle A and the red arrow represents the direction of needle B. Just follow the steps shown in the illustrations below. When you are finished, weave your threads back through your bead and tie off. This design makes a great bracelet also, just use size 4mm beads and make it long enough to go around your wrist.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

Step 7

Step 8

Step 9

Step 10

Step 11

Step 12

Step 13

Step 14

coloring pages-Letters

I print a ton of free coloring pages off the internet. Between myself, my roommates, and my coworkers we go through hundreds destressing. I found these letter coloring pages and thought they would be handy at some point. I found them on Barb's Galaxy, Here is the link to all of the letters. There are many more coloring pages under Coloring Pages for All Ages. Here is an example page of A's.

Hobo Bag

Here is another bag that I found that same day. Unfortunately my sewing machine is in an unheated and uncooled room of the house, so my sewing days are quite limited by the weather. One day I will get around to making this number. This bag and the tutorial can be found on J Caroline Creative.

My new goal is to provide links to the sites instead of copying the instructions here. I really hope this doesn't come back to bite me in the you-know-where. ***alright change of plans. I lost yet another pattern to an old link. Sorry everyone, I'm copying the stuff here. If it really comes down to it, I'll make this a private blog so no one else can see it. Until then, I hope that I give enough credit and attempt to provide enough links that I can keep the complaints at bay.

Materials Needed: 1 yard fabric for exterior of bag 2/3 to 1 yard fabric for interior of bag 2/3 yard of heavy stabilizer (I used Pellon 65) piece of closed cell foam 2" x 18" (I use 3/16" to 1/4" thick- see footnote 1) magnetic snap 2 round rings for straps 1 8" long zipper (if inside pocket is desired) Fabric 10" x 12" for pocket (again, if desired) Purse pattern downloadable here. Prints on six 8 1/2" x 11" pages with guides to tape together. (Requires Adobe Acrobat Reader.)
	Put together the pattern matching the circles. The pattern pages overlap by 1/2". Then cut your material following the pattern instructions.
	I trim down my interfacing about 1/4" all the way around so that I can follow the fabric edge when I sew. Place the exterior fabric right side down on a flat surface and pin the interfacing to the fabric.
	Baste (the longest stitch on your matchine) the interfacing to your fabric, between the seam allowance and the edge. I like to sew mine with the interfacing side up, as it tends to feed more evenly.
	Now stitch the bottom/side pieces together using a 1/2" seam allowance. Stitch on the end closest to the notches.
	About 1/2" before and after the notches, clip to just short of the seam allowance (1/2"). An apparel sewer would clip more than that, but I get nervous because I sometimes clip too far and everytime I clip I feel like I'm just adding a new place for the fabric to unravel.
	Now pin one side of the bag to the bottom/side piece. Don't panic- I took a picture of the inside of this bag, but you are still working on the exterior piece. Match the center seam of the bottom/side piece with the center notch on the bag front. Then match the notches on the curves as you curve the side piece around. Note that I pinned the bag on opposite sides. That is because I stitched from the center and sewed around to the top and did the same for the other side. I found my curves came out more uniform when I sewed them from the same direction, and if your fabric shifts as you sew, you are only dealing with half of your seam at a time, reducing the chance of the shape getting really wonky. Also, when you sew, stop your stitching 1/2" from the top of the front and back of the bag and backstitch to secure your stitching. Repeat this process for the other side of the bag. And if your ends don't end up meeting perfectly, we can adjust that later. (On one side, my front and back pieces were 1/2" off.)
	The side piece that extends beyond the bag will be used to attach the round hardware. Pin under the 1/2" seam allowance along the sides. Then top stitch from the top to where this piece is attached to the purse front and back. (That's why you stopped stitching 1/2" from the edge in the last step- so you can treat those "loops" separately from the bag.) Note that I showed you the side of the bag in this photo where the front and the back of the bag match. You'll see the wonky one later.
	The next two pictures I actually did in reverse order, but do I say, not as I did. (Because I had to go back and redo.) Now you can turn down the top of the bag in the front and back 1/2" and pin in place.
	Place your hardware on the strips of fabric and turn down the "loops" about 1 1/2" inches from where they are sewn to the front and back and pin in place. Since you nicely turned down the front and back seams first, you can tuck those raw edges under the loops. By the way, this is the side where the back and front side did not meet at the same point on the side. I adjusted that by just turning down more of a seam allowance on the one that came up too high. You can't tell when you look at the bag straight on and now it is even with the front when you look at it from the side. Of course, you can't see the finished result in this picture, because I hadn't done that part yet, though I should have.
	Here you can see the inside of the bag after I adjusted the seam allowance on the one side. You can also see how the raw edges from the front and back are hidden underneath the loop. Now you can baste all around the top of the bag. When you get to the sides, just connect the stitching from the front to where you will start stitching on the back.
I don't have a picture for this step, as the ones I took were worthless. I cut a piece of closed cell foam 2" x 18". I marked the center (at 9") and glued it to the inside of the bag bottom to provide some structure. However, I'm not very confident with that method. It was difficult to get the foam to stick and I'm very suspicious with wear and tear it will separate from the bottom and just float around in the purse. So here is what I have done in the past and I should have done here. Take some scrap fabric and cut two pieces about 2" wider and longer than the foam (in this case, 4" x 20"). Enclose the foam in the fabric and stitch all the way around. If you use your zipper foot, you can sew very close to the foam. Then, you can turn the exterior bag wrong side out and stitch the sides (the 18" long ones) to the purse seam allowances. Now the bottom of your bag won't sag oddly depending on what you put in it and the foam will stay put no matter what. Trim your seam allowances down to about 1/4".
	Now you will start working on the interior bag. I decided to put in a zippered pocket, but if that freaks you out, but all means skip it or just sew in a patch pocket. But, it is not as hard as you might think. Take the piece of fabric you cut for the pocket and place it wrong side up. 10" is the width, 12" is the height. 2" from the top, mark a rectangle (centered width-wise) that is 8 1/4" long and 1/2" wide. Now pin the pocket fabric to the interior back piece, right sides together, placing the pocket approximately 1/2" from the top. Stitch around the rectangle, using a very small stitch length on the short ends and corners.
	Carefully cut down the center of the rectangle and about 1/2" from the ends, clip toward the corners as close as you can without clipping the stitching. That corner clip determines how smooth the zipper rectangle will be.
	Turn the pocket material right side out through the zipper hole you just cut. Using your iron and steam, press the rectangle flat, working the pocket fabric until it is hidden when viewed from the front side.
	Flip back the sides of the interior fabric, revealing the little triangle formed by your clipping. Stitch across the triangle to secure as shown by the black line.
	Place the zipper under the rectangular hole and pin. Stitch around the rectangle (about 1/8" from the edge) to secure the zipper.
	Fold the pocket fabric in half (parallel with the zipper) and pin on three sides. Stitch to form the pocket.
	Assemble the interior of the bag the same way you assembled the exterior, with a couple of minor changes. Since you want this bag to fit neatly inside the exterior bag, use a seam allowance a "tad" over 1/2". (Tad is a technical term indicating a small measurement. So stitch a seam allowance somewhere between 1/2" and 5/8".) And when you stitch the side/bottom piece to the front and back, you can stitch all the way to the end of the side pieces. Trim your seam allowances.
	Place the interior bag inside the exterior bag, wrong sides together. Fold under a 1/2" seam allowance on the interior bag, and adjust the seam allowance where necessary to make it fight nicely within the exterior bag. Pin in place. Before the interior and exterior bag can be sewn together, the magnetic snap needs to be installed. Find the center of the front or back interior piece of the bag. Cut two small slits about 1/8" long to fit the prongs of the snap. Apply fraycheck, if desired, to keep the holes from raveling or ripping. Undo any pinning that gets in your way and install the pointy side of the snap through the slits and slip the backing onto the snap inside the bag. Bend the prongs outward to hold the snap. Now mark the pointy part of the snap with grease pencil or chalk. Hold the purse so that the sides are even and rub the snap against the other side (as shown in the picture). Now you can install the magnetic part of the snap on the other side using the chalk mark as your guide. Repin any pins your removed.
	Stitch around the entire top of the bag. I changed my bobbin thread to match the interior bag. Make sure you have sewn the interior and exterior bag together at all points around the bag. Remove the basting stitch you put in earlier.
	Place the short straps right sides together. Stitch together using a 1/2" seam allowance, leaving the bottom open. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4". Using a dowel rod or the handle of a wooden spool, turn the strap right side out. Use your iron and steam to press the strap flat. Use your fingers to work the seams open. On the bottom of the strap, fold the 1/2" seam allowance towards the inside and press in place. Topstitch all around the strap. Repeat the same for the long strap.
	This picture shows both straps sewn together and topstitched ready to sew onto the bag.
	Place the straight edge of the strap through the ring hardware and stitch about 1 1/2" from the ring. Repeat for the other strap. Then tie the ends into a square knot.
¹ Closed cell foam is a dense, thin foam that doesn't compress much. It is usually black, blue or white. It is not the cushy yellowish foam you find in your seat cushions. Where do you find closed cell foam? The easiest solution if you want just a little is to buy Foamies or another brand of foam sheets at a craft store and glue them together to get a thickness of a 1/4" or so. If you want closed cell foam in bulk, find a marine or auto upholstery business. If you're lucky, maybe they will give you a small piece to play with before you commit to a 10 yard roll! I'm sure you could also find it on the internet, but it is bulky (and thus expensive) to ship. If you can't find any closed cell foam, your next best option is chair cushion foam or cardboard. The disadvantage of chair cushion foam is it has to be thicker (like 1") to provide any rigidity. The disadvantage of cardboard is if it gets crushed or bent, it doesn't recover. It also disintegrates when wet.

Mama's Pocketbook

I found this site Mama's Pocketbook long ago while I was at work one day (don't tell!). Here is the one that cough my eye, amazingly enough a free pattern, but they have some other amazing patterns and tutorials on this site.

yay, now that I actually put this information somewhere that I'll know where to find it, I can delete that email to myself.

STEP 1.- GATHER YOUR MATERIALS & SUPPLIES - Here's what you will need (Click image to see a larger version)

Fabric & Interfacing - 1/2 yard each of two coordinating fabrics for body and a piece of fabric large enough to cut two straps measuring at least 25' x 4'' for straps.
A coordinate large enough to cut two pockets measuring 8" x 9.5", 1 yard fusible interfacing (choose medium weight or apppropriate weight interfacing depending on your fabric weight).
Notions & Supplies - Scissors for cutting fabric and for cutting paper, ruler, thread, pins, chalk to mark seam lines and dots, velcro closure or magnet closures (optional), brown kraft paper or other paper to cut pattern pieces from (you can even use a grocery sack!)

STEP 2.- CREATE THE PATTERN PIECES - Make tote body pattern from paper: measure and cut out a 12" tall by 15" wide rectangle and notch a 1 & 1/2" square out of each of the bottom corners as shown above. Mark the pattern piece as I have in the photo with dots at the corners where the 5/8" seam allowances cross. Make sure to lay the pattern so that the grain of the fabric runs lengthwise. Mark your pattern with the grainline.
ALL SEAMS ARE 5/8, but if you perfer 1/2 seams that will work too, just be consistent with all seam allowances.
To make the tote strap pattern piece from paper, measure and cut out a 25" to 28" long by 4" wide pattern piece.
To make the pocket pattern piece, measure an 8" wide by 9.5" tall rectangle. Mark 1.5" foldmark at top of pocket pattern piece and mark 5/8 inch stitching lines on all pattern pieces.
If you wish to make lined pockets, cut your two pocket pieces measuring 8 wide by 8 tall.

STEP 3.- CUT OUT YOUR TOTE &INTERFACINGS - Cut 2 body pattern pieces from each of two coordinating fabric pieces. Two for the outer shell and two for the inner shell (lining). Cut two strap pattern pieces and two pocket pattern pieces from desired coordinating fabrics.
Cut 2 body pieces and 2 pockets from interfacing. You may choose to use interfacing on the straps depending on the weight of your fabric. If the fabric is heavy enough, it will hold it's shape after the folding and sewing on the straps is complete without interfacing.

STEP 4.-PREPARE YOUR PIECES -
Fuse interfacing to back side of outer shell body pieces and pocket pieces with a steam iron according to fusible interfacing directions.
Mark circles with chalk or a marking pencil on body pieces at the notched corners and at the top edges where you want to place the straps

For unlined pockets, turn under 1/4 inch on top edge of pockets and press, then turn under and additional 1.25" to form pocket facing. Press. turn in on sides and bottom of pockets 5/8" and press.
To make lined pockets, place pocket pieces with right sides facing and stitch each of three sides of the square together. On the 4th side stitch 2 inches along the sides from each corner, leaving a 4 inch opening along that side. Reinforce stitching on corners, turn pocket right side out through the opening left on one side, push each corner ou and press your pocket to make it a nice flat square. you can choose to handstitch the openind close, but I just stitch it down when I sew the pocket on to the the tote.

STEP 5.- OPTIONS - Before beginning to sew pieces, if you plan to use velcro or magnetic closures you will want to sew or attach those to the lining pieces, being careful to center them and placing them about 1.5" from top edges. Also if you plan to add any trim that needs to be sewn to the top edge so that the seam allowence covers the seam allowance of the trim you will want to add those embellishments before sewing the main pieces together.

STEP 6.- SEWING!! - I know prep is tedious, but it does make for a professional result... but now the fun part - SEWING IT UP! (Click image to see a larger version)

Sew The Pockets - Believe it or not, the pockets can take the most time of the entire project!
FOR UNLINED POCKETS: Yyou will need to press down all your pocket edges, you may choose to finish your pocket edges with serging, pinking shears, or with fraycheck (a liquid glue that prevents fraying.
Next, starting at the top edge of your pockets, stitch down the 1/4" hem on the pocket top. Then, making sure the side edges are pressed firmly inward, turn down the 1 & 1/4 fold at the top of the pocket to the inside of the pocket; topstitch the facing on the outside of the pocket catching in the turned in sides.
Center pockets on body pieces and pin in place. If you want your bag to be reversible, be sure to position the pockets so that one is on the front of the outer shell, and one is on the back of the inner shell. You may also choose to add pockets to both front and back of the outer shell, and to both sides of the lining if you like a lot of pockets. Sew pockets to body pieces along each side and bottom edge, reinforce stitching at upper edges. TIP: I always slide the upper edge of my pockets in a scant 1/8" on each side so that the pocket is not tight against the body fabric. This creates a slight gap that makes it easier to use the pockets.

FOR LINED POCKETS - Place pocket pieces with right sides facing and stitch each of three sides of the square together. On the 4th side stitch 2 inches along the sides from each corner, leaving a 4 inch opening along that side. Reinforce stitching on corners, turn pocket right side out through the opening left on one side, push each corner ou and press your pocket to make it a nice flat square. you can choose to handstitch the openind close, but I just stitch it down when I sew the pocket on to the the tote.
Center the pockets on the appropriate tote fabric pieces (front outer piece and back inner piece), pin in place and edge stitch it in place, reinforce top corners with back stitching

STEP 8.- Sew the Body - Sew the outer shell side seams to the markings at the notched corners, sew the bottom seam to the markings at the notched corners. as shown below.
Sew the lining side and bottom seams, being sure to leave an opening in one side of the lining for turning the bag right side out later. (see 2nd picture down.)
You may choose to finish the edges of your side and bottom seams now to prevent fraying

NOTE: One of the side seams is sewn abotu 2 to 3 inches from the top edge and again from the bottom edge, leaving an opening in the middle of the side seam. This is so that when you sew the outer shell to the lining all around the top edge of the tote, you will be able to turn the tote right side out through the side opening in the lining. once it's turned you will stitch the opening closed.

NOTE: I have created a new tutorial with more images to help explain how to make the boxed corners. Please go to: http://mamaspocketbook.com/HowToMakeBoxedCorners.pdf for more instructions on this step.

- Sew the bottom corners - fold your bag in half so that the side seams are in the center of the bag. This will help create the bottom corners. Match the centers of the side seams to the centers of the bottom seams and creating a flat angled corner shown. Stitch 5/8" across the corner edge
- Press all your seams flat. Turn outer bag right side out. Turn lining right side in. Make sure to press your bag pieces well now to create a nicely formed shape.

STEP 9.- Prepare and Sew Straps - Press 5/8" in on each side of straps, then fold strap in half, being careful to match edges closely, Press well to create strap.
Sew close (1/4") to folded in edges, then sew close to folded edge on each strap, top-stitch 1/4" in from outer edge stitching (this is the easy way, no difficult turning of long tubes necessary!)

Press straps flat. It's hard to tell from the photo, but you pin the straps to the outside of the body of your tote (not the lining) and baste them in place 1/4 inch from the edge. I usually put them 2 to 3 inches in from the side seams.
Baste stitch the straps in place securely along top edge of front and back of tote. Be sure straps are not twisted. What you see below is one strap pinned to the right side of the front of your tote and underneath the other strap is pinned to the right side of the back of your tote. I just folded the back strap up in the photo so you could see that they are matched up at the same positions on each side.

STEP 10.- Finishing up! - Insert outer bag into the lining, right sides facing, Be sure the straps are tucked down in between the lining and outer bag Match side seams and pin together and pin centers of each body piece. Stitch around the top of the bag, finish seam to prevent fraying.

Turn bag by pulling outer shell through the opening in the side of the lining
Press all edges well. If you plan to use your tote as a reversible one, you may choose to handstitch the opening in the lining closed. If you prefer you can stitch the opening closed by machine.
Finish by topstitching 1/4" from the edge all around the top of your tote.

Add trimmings, embellishments, flower pins, jewerly, buttons, or any other items you desire to personalize your tote ... AND VIOLA - You are done! ENJOY YOUR TOTE!

ScrapMarks

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

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